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Last online 6 years ago


Joined: 22nd Jul 2011

Completed costumes: 20

Photos uploaded: 76

Progress journals: 26

Events attended: 13

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Bought the mahogany red.wig from cos craft and wefted the wig with added bulk hair for the braid.

Now, the wig I was stuck between buying a pre styled curly bob or to use a long wig and create the volume by cutting it make wefts to insert into the base.
I had found tutorials on youtube on how to create a bob which, worked well within my favour. This is so that I would not have to cut wig at all .
I used my previous pandora straight wig and put curling rods in section of the hair.
I then pin curled them according how I perceived it in the artwork and used a ton hairspray XD

The underskirt was quite tricky- mainly because finding striped pink and black fabric was uncommon. So I had to create my own. I used 3m of thick poly plain cotton and evenly cut out a trapezium shape for the skirt.
I used 3 rolls of masking tape and attempted to carefully put each section down for the stripe ( very time consuming). When it was finished , I then took the fabric outside and pinned on the washing line to commence with the spray painting.
Unfortunately it ran out in middle section- so I had to make a mad dash to the store and bought 4 bottles of Black fabric paint. This resulted in painting each striped section by hand . I pinned the fabric back on to the washing to allow it dry for couple hours. Afterwards I took of the masking tape and proceed to heat set the fabric with the iron. There were a few mistakes where the fabric lapsed slightly between the masking tape,however it wasn't a bad attempt.

Bought 1m of light pink felt from ebay and fold the material in half, and drew the shape straight on. It was cut out , sewn and stuffed with wadding from an old pillow

This part I found slightly more difficult, as the front section had a keyhole opening on the bodice. I bought 3m of Thick drill cotton and used ordinary poly cotton for lining. I used a evening dress pattern to form the basis of the bodice. To make the straps, instead of allowing it to go straight across the shoulders, I crossed them over the front to create a halter neck. I then hand sewn the two sections together so that the they can blend seamlessly with the fabric.

For the bottom half of the dress top, again I had to create my own pattern as the skirt was rounded and placed in two halves. I estimated my waist by half and additional 6" for the overlapping and gathering .

I noticed that sleeve are very long for this outfit and I didn't have a pattern to base them on. I got a sleeve from my previous Yuko cosplay (as they are detachable) and fold the pink cotton fabric in half and drafted the shape.
I then used a lighter pink cotton for the lining and accent the darker pink to give the sleeves more weight.

Skirt part I found slightly more difficult, as I was not sure how many meters to use for the circle skirt. I used a renaissance circle pattern and added extra panels just in case. However, the length was way too long for me and t needed to altered with a hoop skirt on. luckily I had some assistance from My mum,who helped me out cut any excess fabric way whilst I stood on a chair:3
Afterward I used the same technique with organza to have as an overlay- again excess material was discardedand u ruffled the top edge for poofyness :D

After sewing the leaves ,I proceed to stick on ivy green gems onto the area with fabric glue and used a hairdresser to speed up the process.
Next I moved onto bottom section of the leaves , which will be attached on to the skirt section.
I used the 6 tired hoop skirt as my base - that way I could determine fullness and width of how leaves would wrap around each other.

I had no idea how I was going to make the leaves and fit them neatly on to the bodice to create more shape.
I winged it, drafting each leaf to half measurement of my wait line with and extra 1.5 " each side.
I then cut out the material and interfacing, proceeded to sew to then trim off the excess fabric.
|After ironing the interfacing, I roughly pinned the leaves onto the bodice and tested with it on to see where the sides meet. I then hand sew small sections of the leaves on to the bodice for a cleaner finish.

I bought 10m of light green satin as I had never made a ball gown before, and wanted to extra careful in case things went wrong. |I had used the wedding pattern previously for my Pandora cosplay and used a base bodice pattern to get started. I didn't have a dressmakers dummy, so I had to guess my measurements and apply it to the pattern when drafting out the mock version.
Turned out ok... until I started on the real version!
I had for gotten about the seam allowance making bodice a lot more tighter than it should be. O_O
Luckily a few week after I had lost a bit of weight and it went on fine, however there was minimal shape to the bodice. that will be sorted once the leaves are attached on

I was a little worried about the dress , which was I left the sewing part till last ( not a wise decision^^;) I had to use three different patterns in order to achieve the right style for Pandora’s dress :
medieval pattern for the sleeves
short dress top pattern
wedding dress set for a long trail for the skirt
I started off with making the skirt as the trail will take up the most fabric and I could evaluate how much would be needed for both top and sleeves. I had to readjust the pattern as I found that trail was not long enough for my height. So far, the skirt alone took 4m of Black Crepe Satin and 4m white cotton for the lining. It was very confusing at first, trying pair the right panels to the skirt as they nearly all looked the same @_@ It came together once I had laid both the lining and fabric together, and proceed with ruffling over 12m of white cotton.

The top took the longest to finish as there were a few complications. The neckline turned out to be too wide for the ruffled collar so I put elastic in the seam to draw it in. Turned out it was too big so I had to gather the stitching manually but the collar was too heavy to stay upright. Eventually I decided that I would make the ruffle collar into a detachable shawl which can be concealed by the corset.

Wig came and looked longer than what I anticipated when I purchased it,so alotof heavy cutting and layering was involved before it took shape for what I want. used got2be Glued hairspray and gel in order to create the slightly spiked sections of his hair but it took me four tries to get it work, which in itself was quite frustrating. By the time time I was done I realized that I at the front there wasn't enough hair to create enough side bangs and a couple of gaps for where spikes had been sectioned off. Its possible that I might need to by more hair & sew them into create more fullness for the wig . *le sigh*

I had a look for Spectator Brogues for Kotetsu footwear but I must say that the expense of them did not work in my favour :( so the most I could do was to "Craft" my own. I found a pair unused pair of black shoes and decided to use them. I didn't know what kind of dye to use on leather ,so I went to Timpson- and was recommended a shoe dye called Tarrago. The bottle was quite small so I was uncertain whether or not it would be enough for both pairs. However I was pleasantly surprise - the dye had thick consistency which was opaque with in two coats. As the mixture was ivory against black, the patent painted sections stood out well the original leather colour.

I first use a white eyeliner (as it cleans off easily) on the shoes and sectioned the design away with masking tape. The parts that were to be painted were prepared with acetone to remove any oil/polish to make the shoe waterproof. Afterwards, applied the dye and left it dry for 5 hours so that the new colour could become waterproof and flexible. I really recommend this dye to any who is dyeing real or synthetic leather shoes who don't want to by new ones :D !

I fixed this problem, by binding the faults in masking tape and then creating cast. I then layering the surface with newspaper and glazing it with linseed oil and PVA glue. When dried I resurfaced the shape the white Acrylic Gesso paint to even out the creases and then spray painted the surface in silver and black for the hilt. To make it look slightly more realistic, combined black, dark green and navy acrylic paint and worked into the creases with a tooth brush for a weathering effect . This was glazed with mod podge for a high gloss shine for finishing touches.I then used an adjustable feather duster handle as my staff base and coated in black paint:)

I had fun making this! Especially that I never made a trident before. I started off by analysing the shape to make it three dimensional and made a flat template out of cardboard for base. Then cut two more versions for both the front and the back so that they can be divided into section for the relief. There were a few problems that did arise, for example parts of the cardboard were too thick to fit or some of the edges didn’t meet properly.

Next part was making a the two halves of the corset meet. I made a buckle which was part of the corset and used straps to attach them together with ease . On the design, shows a snake that coils around from the back to front. I was worried on how I was to achieve this without it breaking from creasing. I came across method by using hot glue as relief. What did was drew out my design across 10 sheets of A4 paper and stuck them together in a line. I then used 9 packs of Glue Sticks and carefully filled in the shape drew, then sandpapered the bumps for a smoother finish when cooled. . The remaining glue I used to attach the snake relief on to the corset.
I then primed the surfaces with Mod podge with 5 layers every 20mins for a even, textured coverage, then used Metallic spray paint to achieve the overall colour which was desired.

This part I found one of the most complicated pieces for this outfit… Especially that this corset had protect only one half of the bust. Firstly, I needed to make a custom pattern for an underbust corset. I used some wrapping paper to template my pattern and then transferred each panel onto 6 xA3 size foam card till it made the required shape. I then used the remaining pieces of craft foam cut into long strips to support the underside of the panels together without it sliding. To strengthen the corset further I used the same pattern to create a fabric backing. I used a mixture of Pva + fabric glue slightly diluted with water. I dowsed the surface of the corset with glue and laid the fabric evenly. To speed up the drying process, I used my Hairdryer on high heat for a few minutes, which made the surface solid :)

To make my gauntlet , I used a fingerless glove and mounted card board on each of the knuckles . For the bracers and knuckle plate – I used crafting foam and mounted the trimmings with extra layers. I then covered the rough edge with a hot glue gun and began priming the surface with PVA Glue. When dried, I used Brilliant metallic chrome spray paint and then attached elastic to the inside of the bracer for extra support.

I used two sections of sculpey and divided them up in smaller pieces for the beads and the ‘teeth’ sections. Made each jewellery part had a large hole as the clay would retract once put into the oven. After, I glazed the pieces with mod podge and painted black acrylic for the beads and gold for teeth sections.

I found this asset quite tricky to deal with as I was uncertain as to how to make belt stay upon my leg . However I experimented and use to Insulation tubing and moulded the shape with gun. I formed the strip into a coil and hot glued parts of the coil fit more snugly around the leg. Afterwards, I primed with mod Podge glue and used purple metallic acrylic when dried.

These were not too difficult to do as I was making them out of Crafting Foam. To create a raised surface, I used hot glue to trace around the edges. When cooled down, I used Mod Podge to prime the surface and after 20mins between each coat (3 in total)I then used silver acrylic to paint over the each asset. For weathering I used a combination of Dark blue , cool grey and green to create the rusted effect, then glazed over with diluted PVA glue.
Armbands were attached round with elastic and the Choker was attached together with Velcro.

Snake ring
I wasn’t really sure how to go about making the snake ring as I needed it to be solid and yet curve
gently around my hand. From research I found, Filmo clay has more flexible properties than sculpey.
It was difficult at first, to make the coil work as it needed it to be wide enough to work – broke at least three times before this worked . May need to figure out alternative options for this to work.

I was looking all over town and the internet to find a shirt that was the right shade of teal to match Kotetsu' colours for about 4 weeks . Until eventually I found one- only difference is the shirt is more tailored towards woman as unlike a male shirt. Most likely I will have to wear a binder :/

I found this part to be quite a dilema as I was not sure how I could m ake a belt look believ and solid ....like gold and to make it worse, it was a three teird :(. Howeve I founds some ideas on Youtube by use Duct tape to make belts from scratch (though most versions the belts looked flimsy). So I went In to discount shop and bought three plain belts , roughly the same length and cut the buckle and studs out. Next I measured four strips of Duct Tape to the length of the belts and overlapped them. I aligned the three belts with 5mm gap in between each belt and layed my Duct tape sheet over them then contiued wrap the tape around till completely covered.
I purchased some PVC gold stretch material off ebay, to be used to cover the belt to get the shiny metallic surface. First I had to measure the length and width for security, then used hot glue and carefully wrapped the belt around till the surfaces were completely covered.
afterwards then elastic was inserted in and sewing down along with velcro to fastern easily around the waist.

Headress- was finshed under three days- mostly due to drying. My concern I found with the head piece was the clay crumbling away from frequent movement. However, I found a few tutorials on papeier mache and sealing foam sheets armour by using abndage material. So I cut the thin strips of bandage and diluted glue and started appling layers to thicken the surface andto creature texture. I used my hairdryer speed it up and applied five layers of pva glue to ensre that the clay would be secure . When the headress dried I used two layers of gold acrlyic paint and mixed black with some of the painting to create a defination for the motif in the centre. Added the finishing touches by using diluted PVA as a varnish. Whilst waiting for the glue the dry, next day I made the beads for the bottom of the head dress out of Polymer clay. Orginally I was going to use air drying clay, but later found that it was bulky to stay upright on the head dress. Luckly in my local art shop they had gold polymer glay similar to my scheme:)
Figuring out how the headress was going to stay against my forehead all days was a little diffcult , but with trial and error I found it was more effective flexible for it to be attatch to a ellasticated band. Hoping it work , I used a large amount of fabric glue and left it over night to dry over .

Dress- The dress was slightly more simple than making jewellery as the shape I chosen was Grecian- styled dress. Although the reference picture shows that the dress is more wrapped around than straight, I felt it the style I chose was more flattering for my proportions. I bought 5m of Jersey cotton and tripled my measurements to achieve a more 'floaty' effect. I split the material into panels so that the top half the dress was more fitted towards the chest than the bottom half.
Afterwards I sewed the elstatic in from the top half and middle section, then hemmed and lightly pressed the seams flat.

THis part I have struggled with becauase to make gold look realistic and curve round the arm, with out gaps feels impossible. However I wandered into to my local art shop and found out that they sell paper-thin sheets brass metal used for embossing that is cuttable and can bend easily on a roll. ^^ I measured my arm (both the upper and the wrist) and cut them out and put the pieces on a foam backing for comfort. Issues still remain that the upper band tends to slide off regardless of the velcro fastening thats been applied. *le sigh*
Will have to sort out at a later stage

- I didn't know what to make the jewellery out of since it had to be durable and strong enough to last for all day. So I bought air drying clay and got to work on them in the evening. To support it I used card board as a based and cut roughly to hsape of the pieces. Since the head dress was quite detailed; I had to work parts of design in sections and smooth parts of over to remove any trapped air with in the clay. Next day, it had completely dried left some cracks and wobbled slightly :S

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