Miki Hoshii

Cosplayer: CrystalNeko

Variant: Forever Star

Status: Complete

Condition: Not Set

9th February 2014: Costume Test Trying it all on! These aren't the boots I'll be wearing, well the base are, but they need new covers because these were the start of my Floral ones!

Just need details and to make the sash now!

9th February 2014: Bodice V Zipper is finally sewn in! I can wear it now!

11th January 2014: Bodice IV The bodice is more or less 80% done now, just needs a zip and the buttons!

I used the leftover trim I made and sewed it to around 15mm on my sewing machine and then turned it inside out with a safety pin and sewed it in place because bi-stretch is shit at holding its shape - which in turn made it much easier to turn inside out than cotton would!

I turned the bodice inside out again so that the interfacing could be seen and pinned the straps sandwiched inbetween the two layers of bi-stretch and then sewed the top together - this is how I got a clean finish that is pretty neat on the inside as well if I do say so myself.

Not much progress really, just neatening things up. If Fabric Land are still sold out of the length of invisible zip I need then I will scream :P
(Or work on a different cosplay for the time being... XD)

Time Taken: 1hr

5th January 2014: Bodice III I sewed together the other layer and then sewed the two together right side. Then I trimmed the excess (there's a lot of excess!) so that it was easier to turn inside out and voila, this is what it's like! Nice clean edges - they just need an iron and the interfacing inside will make it behave :)

I haven't sewed the top together yet, I'm going to sew the straps on first. But for now I'm going to take a quick break to prep for work tomorrow XD

Time Taken: 3hrs

5th January 2014: Bodice II Some parts need taking in as I cut the fabric out larger than the mock up because the mock up was a little small, now this is too big... XD

But here's one layer and the interfacing sewn together! Going to cut out the final layer and then sandwich it together.

Time Taken: 2hrs

5th January 2014: Bodice I IT BEGINNNNNS.

I got super hungry so stopped to post progress and eat some biscuits.

I actually hate cutting things out hahaha, so boring. I'm being lazy and pinning the interfacing and bistretch together but then I'll have to cut out one more layer of bistretch so that the inside is nice and neat and you can't see the interfacing.

5th January 2014: Skirt II Both skirts have their trims sewn on, woop! I'll make a waist band when FabricLand restocks their zips...

Time Taken: 30mins

4th January 2014: Skirt I One skirt finished, just gotta sew the other one as soon as I pin the trim in place :)

Time Taken: 3hrs

4th January 2014: Trim IV Pictures of the trim all sewn into place! See, it does look neat eventually!!!

Don't trim the excess horsehair braid, or else there is literally no reason for you in ever using it as it needs the whole thing to hold its shape.

4th January 2014: Trim III I sewed in the horse hair braid about 3/8 of an inch onto the back side of the fabric, then sewed the blue trim on the front side of the fabric about 3/4 of an inch. You can be as messy as you want at this point, and oh boy I was very messy XD

But then you fold over the trim and pin it in place using the 3/4inch mark as a guide. The horsehair braid makes it easier to sew in the trim which is why I didn't iron it - it's made from bistretch anyway, which is impossible to iron!

4th January 2014: Trim II I've done more progress than this but here's a sort of explanatory picture of how I'm making the trim. My lines totally don't line up... I always do this but I'm fairly good at compensating by eye so they do always work out to be the same width for me XD

Tab has done a cracking tutorial on how to make your own bias binding, I've always followed the same method because it works every time and gives you a decent amount :)

You can probably guess what my next progress picture will be. The skirts! The trim is all cut out and the skirts are sewn together so I'm going to be posting close ups of how I've sewn the trim into it.

3rd January 2014: Bodice mock up II Happy New Year everyone!!

I sort of dropped off the face of the planet after #SewNovember. It suddenly got super hectic what with an important University report to write and then flying off to another country for work meetings and ahhh, I just really could not keep up with #SewNovember and keep my sanity/grades ;____;

But I'm back into sewing again! I decided to take a different approach to the bodice and modify a pattern as I figured this would be easier to distribute to people. I'm using Simplicity 3629 and basically using the vest pattern to cut the diamonds into shape and hacking off the sleeves. It works rather nicely actually! It looks more creased because the calico is stupidly creased hahaha.

The seams in the pattern are a handy marker for where the points should be.

Perhaps tomorrow I'll actually put this to fabric and do some proper sewing! But I'm finally pleased with the bodice and skirt patterns so I can zoom along now :)

Time Taken: 3hrs

13th November 2013: #SewNovember - Trim I'm on my phone atm but will link a bias binding cutting tutorial I always use without fail (I do it from memory now but when I was learning I would use this one!) And it gives me decent bias binding every time.
I cut my fabric on the bias into a parallelogram shape and I've drawn out the width of my trim. I wanted a one inch trim so I drew out each line into 2.5" widths for extra seam allowance.
It's bloody difficult drawing in a straight line without a straight ruler, had so many mini points to join up with my fabric tape in hope it'd be somewhat straight x.x

11th November 2013: #SewNovember Mock Up II Sewed it altogether and tried it on with just a pin at the back. Still needs adjustments but I'll do that later, I wanna get going on proper sewing now so gonna start cutting out the trim so that everything is all cut out and stuff!

I am not sorry for showing off my bunny pyjama shorts, they totally make the costume.

Time Taken: 2hrs

11th November 2013: #SewNovember - Mock Up Made a mock up out of calico, as you can see it was well worth it!

I need to tighten up the bust area but otherwise the pointy bits flare out fine and it's good to see it implemented with fabric rather than newspaper. When I put the bust area to the way I want it I will sew it up and test it on my own body.

Time Taken: 1hr30

9th November 2013: #SewNovember - Bodice First draft I've been slacking already in #SewNovember! Been super busy and tired these past few nights due to having to put on a screening at work one night then an extra long orchestra rehearsal last night. I've been doing research for another costume that's not part of #SewNovember too so ahh, why aren't days 36hrs long!?

Anyway, this is sort of how I begin the patterning process. I do any calculations needed with maths. In this case, most of the maths needed was to do with how far apart the pointy bits needed to be. I measured my waist and then roughly measured how big the area where the pointy bits end is. Divided these two numbers to get a scale factor (in my case roughly 1.5). Then I separated this into my front and back, so I took my front and quartered it and took the middle quarters and this was where the seam lines would be and the centre of the point. Took the point from my centre to the seam line and then multiplied this by the scale factor and then used this value as the distance from the centre to the point and then I joined the lines together to make the first point.
I basically did this for all four panels.
I could have divided my waist equally by four but naturally my back is wider than my front ever so slightly so the proportions would have been off. So I preferred to separate my front and back measurements.

The rest of the bodice I kind of draft by heart as I've done so many bodices now... The pattern is forever engraved into my head so I find it hard to explain OTL.

Not sure if my maths made sense to anyone at all, it's much easier to sketch it out!

Now I'm going to redraw the newspaper cut outs onto calico and see if it drapes right with fabric. I don't normally do this but I want to be extra sure when distributing this pattern as it actually matters this time XD

7th November 2013: #SewNovember - Skirt II I cut out a new pattern using the old one as a base (mainly for the waist) and just drew it out to be 3 inches shorter.

Using the new pattern I cut out another skirt!

I only used half the fabric I bought. So if my fellow idols are reading this, only buy 2m of duchess satin and you'd still have room for errors! I'm probably going to make other people's costumes anyway so the fabric won't go to waste for me and I don't mind being the guinea pig at all :)
Ignore what the pattern says, you don't need 2m per skirt. That is ridiculous and I can make two skirts with 2m.

Now I did go to FabricLand today but I didn't intend to so I didn't bring any offcuts with me to get the right coloured thread. But I did go to buy some calico to make a bodice pattern tomorrow evening! I don't leave work til 8pm tomorrow so there's no chance I can buy thread tomorrow haha XD

6th November 2013: #SewNovember - Skirt I Still barely any progress but I've been pretty busy today! To be fair I was occupied with cosplay research for something else which took up a lot of my #SewNovember time, but it's all very relevant to the theme!

Only had time to cut out the lower layer of the skirt today. Tomorrow I will trace the pattern onto some newspaper or whatever I can find for the shorter layer and cut that out.

If I get off work early then I will go into town and buy some appropriate thread to start sewing as well! Otherwise it's just more pattern making for the time being.

4th November 2013: #SewNovember - Skirt pattern cut I'm doing things ever so slowly because I don't have time to go to FabricLand for the next couple of days. So I will run out of things to do very quickly XD

So I cut out the skirt pattern, feel ever so ripped off as it's literally just a circle skirt! But I will still follow it and will see if it's a better method to how I make it with the notches and everything. I feel the need to learn how to use conventional patterns anyway!

P.S. I always cut patterns to the largest size so that if people are bigger than me I don't have to worry about resizing it. Plus it makes it easier if I suddenly gain weight! When I say always... This is the second pattern I've ever used XD

3rd November 2013: #SewNovember - Fabrics II I've had this horsehair braid for ages now because I like keeping things like this in my sewing box at all times. I like getting big rolls from eBay because it works out cheaper that way but for those that will never use it again, get however much you think the hem of the skirts will be!

I always buy from this supplier - the 30mm.

2nd November 2013: #SewNovember - Fabrics I usually get friends from Birmingham to buy my Duchess satin for £5p/m however as this is for a group I decided to source all my fabric online so that others can buy from the same source.

I will use the powder blue duchess satin for the skirts.

And the royal blue bi-stretch for the top and handmade trim.

I chose bi-stretch for the top because it doesn't crease easily so when we're dancing it won't suddenly crease up, especially as it's so form fitting. It will however make bias binding making a right pain because it's nearly impossible to iron. To work around this problem I've bought 25-30m of horsehair braid so I can just cut the fabric on the bias into long strips and sew that on simultaneously with the horsehair braid so that it won't shift and it will stay in place. It will also give it that extra cute flounce the skirts appear to have!!

Picture is the fabric with and without flash. I'm never at home in the daytime so only have very yellow dim lighting instead!

1st November 2013: #SewNovember - Pattern research I'm making this costume as part of the #SewNovember challenge. I did in fact start on the 1st November however this is my first opportunity on a laptop as I had been home all weekend! So I'm already having to catch up with my journals haha.

This cosplay is for a big group at Kitacon and so I put extra effort in researching patterns to distribute to the group. The skirt pattern was the easiest to work out as there are tons of patterns out there. I bought Simplicity 3618 for the skirt as it's separate and drapes the way I want it to.

I'm going to see how short one layer is and then will probably make the second layer shorter.

29th October 2013: Reference Picture Didn't want two references spamming up the main photos page!

Angel Tear avatar

Angel Tear - 7th November 2013
Way to go! I'm really enjoying reading these updates :)

White Tigress avatar

White Tigress - 9th February 2014
What a cute costume and loving the progress! I really should check the series out sometime.