Kyoko Kasuga
Deadman Wonderland

Cosplayer: madmazda86

Status: Complete

Condition: Not Set

19th August 2012: Postponing till October Expo As Annette didn't get her Makina finished for Amecon we're instead going to wear our costumes on the Sunday of October Expo!

15th July 2012: Jacket and skirt nearly done! So I resewed it all, and put on the sleeves and the collar. I shortened it a bit too - on the reference art it definitely goes over the hips as that's where her belt sits, so it's long enough for that, but I wanted to have a little more of the skirt showing than in the reference pic 'cause otherwise it looks as if she's wearing a jacket several sizes too big for her.

Today I also learnt how to do something new! I've always cheated on buttons before now and just sewn them on without doing proper buttonholes. But the buttons I have are blazer buttons so if I just sew them on they'll tilt forward at an angle and look stupid. So today I mastered how to do buttonholes on Tom's sewing machine. It's actually pretty easy on his as it has an automated setting where it does a few stitches at the end of each button hole and two narrow bands of applique in between, using the changeable needle position of the machine. So it was just a case of turning the dial ABCD and making sure I had the fabric in the right position. I'm quite pleased with the results, I'm going to split the button hole using a sharp knife as I need to cut through two layers of fabric and some interfacing. I measured the buttons before sewing the buttonholes so I really hope they fit! I've got the option of doing buttonholes on the other side as well, on top of the seam, but as the seam's there I think I might cheat a bit for those ones and just embed the button protrusions into the seam so they lie nice and flat. The jacket I patterned this off has a fake second row of buttons too so I think it's a common design convention anyway.

There's still a few fitting issues with the jacket, I think I'll need to put a dart up the back of it to gather in the excess fabric that's around the front near the bust - or use a chicken fillet-style bra to try and fill it up a little more ._. I have put a bust dart in on the left hand side to match with the reference picture but because I struggled so much to get the wrapover of the jacket lapel straight and lined up, I'm trying to avoid putting a dart on the right as the jacket doesn't quite wrap over far enough to cover it if it were there, and there isn't one on the reference art. I think I'll be able to get away with it provided I can get rid of the excess fabric around the bust area in general (even on the side where there is a dart) to make it look better fitted.

I'll probably slim-line the sleeves a little as well, in the name of not looking like a young girl wearing a blazer two sizes too big!

I also need to line the jacket, but I need to buy some lining fabric which is on the shopping list for tomorrow.

I've also started the skirt - well, actually, it just needs a zip, that I need to buy, and hemming/waistbanding, and then it's done. I've also created the base badges to applique - one patch for the arm, one patch for the beret.

12th July 2012: Ugh So this morning I went and cut out the sleeves I'd drafted the night before, dumdedum, and was putting the sides of the sleeves together to sew when I realised something. The right and wrong side of the fabric were not the same. This is really stupid but I rarely work with fabrics that have a right and wrong side, I don't often use printed fabric or those where the closeness of the weave varies between right and wrong side, like this brushed navy cotton I'm working with for Kyoko. I hadn't noticed this up until now.

So of course, I went over to look at the jacket I'd been labouring on all week, and sure enough, I've used the wrong side for the jacket front and the right side for the back and facings. Needless to say, this was impossible to fix without unpicking every damn seam I've sewn up until now. FML, progress was so good!

So that's tonight's job. Le sigh. Never mind, the only pieces I have to flip over are the jacket fronts, then just need to whizz it all back together and get on with what I was supposed to be doing, namely sewing on the sleeves!

Once that's all done I just need to cut out and interface the collar pieces and pop those on, and then the jacket just needs trims, epaulettes etc. Then it's on to the skirt!

11th July 2012: Jacket Progress I need to lengthen the collar so it sits further down the lapels and I don't have to fold them out so much (they look huge!) The collar itself is a mockup so I'm just going to cut it in half, pin the ends further down and pin a strip of fabric in between so I know how much extra length is required. I'll then pattern ANOTHER mockup and try fitting it again. All the mockups!

I won't be wearing this white shirt with the costume, it's just one I pulled out of the wardrobe. I'll probably do a Primark number on the shirt tbh, you hardly see any of it under the jacket! XD

I'm hoping to have this jacket finished by the end of the week and just requiring trims. I reckon the sleeves will take me one evening which gives me another few days to nail this sodding collar!

6th July 2012: Making the jacket Soooo, 5 weeks till Ame and I've started making Kyoko XD Today I made a start on the jacket shell. I used a brown buttonover jacket that I already owned and drafted the side and back pieces from that. Cutting those out and pinning them together was easy-peasy, it was getting the lapels to sit right that was the pain. Kyoko has a button over her bust, therefore the jacket lapel had to begin folding from that point yet curve enough to leave a decent sized opening to show her tie. I eventually pinned it into submission! I'll have to unpin that to have a go at fitting the collar, but I might iron those folds in before I do that so I don't have to go through that fitting process again.

The last time I made a jacket was when I made Lisa Basil, and the collar and sleeves were an absolute nightmare to do. Making this jacket is giving me flashbacks to that, but I've made a lot of costumes since then so I'm hoping the extra experience will get me through that!

Monday's job is to cut out the back facings for the jacket lapels, then draft the collar and have a go at fitting it. I think I'll probably do a mockup of it first and get that to fit before cutting it out of the actual fabric, as I only have a limited supply that I bought at the same time Annette bought hers for Chief Makina, to make sure we matched. I plan to use the same technique from the jacket pattern I used for Lisa Basil, where you cut the under collar slightly smaller than the upper collar to get the seams to roll underneath and not be seen. I might even print that page of the Jorinde jacket pattern I used so I have the right ratios to copy from.

Littlegeeky avatar

Littlegeeky - 10th March 2013
Ahh you look amazing!
I've never seen anyone cosplay her before.
Deadman Wonderland needs more love!