20th October 2011: The Doublet (Part 1) [This is what I wrote up while making the costume, but I figured I might as well include it here too!)
The original pattern I made was based off the pattern printed in Historical Costumes and How to Make them, it was very useful in giving me the basic shapes I needed, and included patterns for a doublet, hose, sleeves and a cape. I adapted the patterns slightly, such as the hose in the book were specifically Venetian hose, which, after the research I did pertaining to the type of clothes young men such as Samuel Daniel might have worn was not suitable. So I adapted the pattern into making a pair of French hose with added cannions instead. Similarly, the style of sleeves in the book were for the larger, more pronounced and stuffed sleeves of the earlier period of the middle 1500s, whereas Samuel Daniel’s style of clothing is based more on the early 1600-style of clothing, in which the sleeves were significantly less stuffed and were much tighter on the arms, and around the wrists.
I started work on the doublet first; I had managed to come across a lucky find in a charity shop of finding an old bed linen set of the colour and pattern-style I wanted for Samuel’s doublet. It was 100% cotton and perfect for what I needed. In my design, the doublet is an orange colour, trying to bring out the bright, youthful colours gentlemen of the period might have worn. I was hoping to find something with a matching pattern so it would look detailed and to the period, rather than having to make a pattern entirely from slashing the doublet in the style of the Romeo doublet at in the Globe’s costume archives. (The black doublet with pink slashings). Thankfully, the fabric I found had an interesting mix of oranges, yellows and terracotta’s which suited the style I wanted, and so I felt that was all that was needed. I tried to keep in style with the Globe’s way of making doublets, it was my first attempt at using quilting for the inner-lining of the doublet. All doublets were generally lined with quilting, due to the nature of the British weather being significantly colder than what it is today – of course, should the weather ever have gotten too hot, again, points could be used to remove one’s sleeves, and make the outfit a lot cooler.