4th July 2014: Re-Fit When I first made up the bolero pattern it was far too wide across the shoulders, so I re-stitched the sleeves an inch further into the shoulders. It still didn't quite sit right, so before the photo shoot I added a centre seam down the back to quickly take out 2 more inches! I couldn't understand why it was so drastically wrong, but then I worked with a pattern that included separate pieces for cup sizes and suddenly it all made sense. This was a problem I'd always had, but on a shoulders only style like the bolero jacket it was more prominent.
Commercial patterns are drafted for a B-cup figure. When you pick your matching bust size off the pattern that measurement might be made up of a large cup size on a small chest or a small cup size on a large chest; very different shapes but the same measurement. This one measurement also dictates the fit over the shoulders and upper chest, which means it will be too large if you are bigger than a B-cup.
The solution is to use your 'high bust' (chest on the pic) measurement to get a more accurate size for shoulders and back, you can then adjust the front pieces to add more bust room where it's actually used! This blew my mind, it totally explained problems I'd had altering patterns before.